Sunday, January 6, 2013

El día de los Reyes Magos

On Saturday, January 6th, 2013, the five of the six API Madrid students that are currently here went walking around the city. Right now there are only 6 Americans, since I am here early for an intensive language month, but 12 more are coming in a week, and there will be 50 total in a month.

One of our API directors casually mentioned that there would be a parade later and so that the streets were closing at 4pm meaning the parade made start at 5pm, and so we thought that that may be something worth visiting. We went to our first tapas bar, which is a VERY big deal here. Tapas are small meals that you eat typically with your alcohol. Many times the tapas are free if you buy a drink, other times if you buy a tapa you get a free drink.

Around 5:30, we decided to look and see if the parade was still going on, and then we saw large waves of people heading in a particular direction and so decided it was probably worth it to follow them. Somehow we accidentally found ourselves at the pivotal location of the parade, right in front of the old Spanish post office.

El Correo (the post office)

So turns out this wasn't just some parade, it was actually a HUGE deal. It is called "La Cabalgata" and is a parade broadcasted around Spain and all of Latin America that signifies the coming of the magi to baby Jesus. In Spain, the Christmas holiday lasts from Christmas Eve until January 6th when the magi arrived. I really love this tradition because I feel like there it too much build up to Christmas for it to only last for a day. Children here are incredibly excited because "Los Reyes" (the kings, or some Christians think the wise men) will be bringing presents to the children, even though many families also believe in Papa Noel (Santa Claus). Because of this, "La Cabalgata" is a parade primarily for the children.



Float for the coming of "Los Reyes"

Los Reyes

When we arrived for the parade (still thinking it was beginning shortly), we were surprised that people were crowding the street like 20 people back. How can you see a parade that far away? But we decided to stick around since this was apparently a very big deal. Just from talking to people in the crowd next to me I was able to find out that this is a parade that many people from other parts of Spain come into Madrid to watch live. In front of El Correo there was a children's choir singing typical Christmas songs, but usually in Spanish. They sang at least one in English, and in all had a very large repertoire of music. It was entertaining since we could hear them over the loudspeakers.

We were in the crowd for around 3 hours before the parade actually started. We were too far back to see a lot of the processional, but could see the men on horses on the huge screen that in front of El Correo (could we have stumbled upon a better spot?). The large floats we could see and these floats would throw candies out to the children who were prepared. Children take this parade very seriously. Many bring step-ladders so that they can see everything, and then use upside-down umbrellas to catch the candies.Very serious business.

El Correo on the night of La Cabalgata

Crowd

Float equivalent to Nickelodeon, complete with "Esponja Bob" 

The parade takes place the day before the coming of the kings, and so the next morning (January 6th), all of the shops are closed and everyone remains at home (writing blogs?). This is the day that the children will receive presents, and most families will eat Roscón de Reyes. This is a sweet bread that is baked in an oval, sometimes with creme between two halves. The tradition with this bread is that baked inside of the bread is a figurine. If your slice of bread contains this figurine, you win! You get to wear the crown that comes with the bread. The figure is big enough that you certainly will not choke. Also included in the bread is a bean, if your slice of bread contains the bean, you get to pay for you bread. No wonder many children just go ahead and swallow the hard bean whole. All of the pastelerias (bread shops) are selling these.

Roscón de Reyes



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